Like a good book, this elegant old Speysider builds with time and grows in character – be prepared to give it a good hour in the glass to open up. Aromas of banana bread, musty attics, leather and wax blend with fresher fruit notes to create an incredibly deep nose. This theme continues on the palate, which displays a beautifully aged character, with notes of spiced custard, cardamom fudge. Hints of praline build alongside dried apricot and something pleasingly musty. Lingering spice and fruit show with an unexpected puff of wood smoke on the back palate. This is a marvellous example of aged Speyside whisky.

Benriach Distillery, near Elgin, is a short walk from its sister distillery, Longmorn. The distillery was constructed in 1898 at the height of the Victorian whisky boom but soon fell silent, not resuming production again until 1965.