Notes of shoe-leather on the nose with a palate driven by fresh cassis, vanilla, a dollop of cream and the texture of a lolly-stick sucked clean. It’s an absolute bloody marvel.

Smalltown Vineyard continue the long-standing theme of superstitious wines, a bird which for many represents fortune, so the bottle has a dual-facing label to show either The Good Luck Club (front) or The Bad Luck Club (back) illustrated in that most animated of media: 19th Century Japanese Kabuki masks. It’s about the highs, lows, ayes and noes of winemaking, chance and the mad undulations of human existence.