American whiskey is a hugely popular category with demand in recent years outstripping the available stock; they just can't make the stuff quickly enough! This has lead to an almost cult like following of premium brands like Pappy Van Winkle and George T Stagg and obtaining one of their releases is as hard as finding a needle in a hay stack! In the US, people have to buy raffle tickets to even have a remote chance of getting a bottle. Despite there being an abundance of American whiskey to purchase in the UK, many people think that the category begins and ends with Jack Daniels so, in this month's 101, I'm going to be taking a look at American Whiskey in a similar vein to the the Vodka 101 and Gin 101 articles. We will take a concise look at the history of American Whiskey and then go on to learn about the different types of whiskey. Finally, we'll a look at the terminology you'll find on a whiskey label so you can identify what it is you're buying.
Alcohol production was of paramount importance to America's first immigrants as it was the only liquid that was safe to drink; the water was highly likely to cause illness! The first spirit made in America was rum with molasses being bought from the Caribbean as part of the trade triangle. The large influx of Scottish and Irish settlers, two countries with long histories of whiskey drinking, meant the country's knowledge of distillation was taken forward and naturally favoured whiskey. However, this unusual mix of Catholics and Presbyterians were not made welcome in the puritanical north east and they initially settled in Pennsylvania and the Carolinas. These pioneering colonists soon discovered that, whilst barley was suited to Irish and British soil, corn and rye would be more rewarding crops in their new land. Couple this with a natural disposition for independence and rebellion, and it's not surprising that American whiskey branched off in a totally different direction both in terms of production methods and taste. Once small scale production was established, containers in which the spirit could be sold were required. Barrels made of oak took the whiskey to market and they were charred inside to prevent contamination. The first recorded guildsman cooper, John Lewis, started work in 1608. The North East was still drinking rum and so whiskey went west. It soon became apparent that the further away the market, meaning the whiskey was in the barrel for longer, the more impressive the whiskey. Legend has it that this is how maturation in charred oak barrels evolved and is a practice that is still practiced today. George Washington's crushing of the Whiskey Rebellion (an anti tax demonstration) forced many whiskey distillers inland to Kentucky and its surrounds; this was a blessing in disguise as nature had given this area everything required for good whiskey making. Corn flourished, water supplies were abundant, oak forests provided wood to fire the kilns and to make barrels, hot summers with high humidity and cold winters provided the ideal climate for maturation and their were plentiful rivers that provided a route to market. Bourbon County, which was named in recognition of the French's help in the Revolutionary War against the British, was established in 1785 and in 1820 the term bourbon whiskey was coined. The first recorded commercial distillery belonged to Evan Williams and was founded in 1783.
Temperance And Prohibition
No history of American Whiskey would be complete without mentioned Prohibition. The first temperance moves began in the early 1800's and by 1854 five Eastern states were already dry (it must have been depressing!). The whiskey industry itself grew in leaps and bounds; the first large distilleries were built in the late 1800's, automatic production followed shortly, brand names were registered, exports began to increase and the companies themselves grew into moderate corporate entities. Against this background the crusade against liquor had hardened and by 1910 half the country was dry. In 1920 the National Prohibition Law was passed and it lasted until 1933. Known as the Great Illusion, Prohibition denied most Americans access to alcohol legally, although it was available from the black market which was controlled by, and made a fortune for, the mob. This crippled many distilling companies and bankrupted all of the small distillers. Many distilleries never re-opened and the their brands were bought up by the few remaining large companies . Following the repeal of Prohibition large scale production is now done by only a handful of active multi national spirit producers. In Kentucky there are ten large distilleries, two in Tennessee and one apiece in Georgia and Indiana. A number of craft distilleries also operate in each state also.
What Are American Whiskies Made From
American whiskies are the result of a mash of cereals and water that have been saccharified by enzymes, fermented by yeast, subsequently distilled, aged and bottled. Neither bourbon or rye may be artificially coloured.
Bourbons must be made from a minimum of 51% corn, distilled to a maximum of 80% ABV and finally ages in new charred oak barrels at no more than 62.5% ABV. It cannot be bottled below 40% ABV. Examples of bourbon whiskies are Buffalo Trace, Jim Beam Devil's Cut, Makers Mark, Bakers and Rowan's Creek.
Must be made from a minimum of 51% grain (this is usually corn) and be distilled in Tennessee at less than 80% ABV. The resultant whiskey must be filtered through a bed of sugar maple charcoal (this is called the Lincoln County Process) and aged in charred oak barrels for a minimum of two years. The maple charcoal imparts a certain sweetness and smokiness, a point of difference that was legally recognised in 1941 when the term Tennessee whiskey was born. There aren't many Tennessee whiskies and by far the most popular and widely known is the ubiquitous Jack Daniels, of which there are a surprising number of varieties.
Must be made from a minimum of 51% rye and matured in new charred oak barrels; these are rich, powerful whiskies with varying degrees of pungency that are often used in cocktails like Old Fashioned and Manhattans. Examples of rye whiskey include Sazerac Rye, Wild Turkey Rye, Rittenhouse Rye and Redemption Rye.
Must be made from a minimum of 51% wheat; these whiskies have creamy, layered, textured characteristics. These whiskies are quite rarely made and can be expensive as a result. Examples include Bernheim Original Wheat and Parkers Heritage Wheat 13 Years.
What Can Be Found On The Label
The label on a bottle of American whiskey will tell you a great deal about the liquid inside if you understand the terminology used. Sometimes it sounds as if you're reading a foreign language so to avoid confusion here are the most commonly used terms explained in layman's terms.
Cereal Base
When a particular grain is mentioned on the label it means that the whiskey is made from a minimum of 51% of that grain.
Single Barrel
Whiskey from a selected barrel; the barrel variation in Kentucky is so great that the blenders are always on the lookout for that special barrel.
Small Batch
Any small small selection of barrels chosen by the master blender, frequently blended across the floor. These whiskies will be the result of barrels specially selected to compliment one another's strengths and to ultimately provide the best quality, most complex and well balanced whiskey possible.
Age Statement/Vintage
If under 4 years old the age must be stated, if over 4 years old this is the length of time spent in the barrel. The vintage year is the year of distillation.
Bottled In Bond (BIB)
A single distillery product from a single season of distillation that's aged for a minimum of 4 years in a government supervised warehouse and bottled at 50% ABV.
Sour Mash
Made from a ferment that has had a percentage of a previous fermentation added to it; this can boost the fermentation and gives a level of consistency from batch to batch.
Proof
An American term for the measure of alcohol in the bottle. If you halve the number then that will give you the percentage in ABV. For example, 80 Proof would be 40% ABV.